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One of the plaster "shells" is removed with half of the clay blanket, and the metal flashing is thrown away. A parting-line is created in the existing clay: A groove is cut into the clay, which will later work to key both sides of the rubber. Notice also the keys in the plaster edge that were created by the metal flashing. In some cases, the clay removed from the mold can be weighed and used to estimate how much rubber to be mixed.
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The shell that was removed is cleaned out and a separator (wax) is applied to the inside. The shell is placed back into position and clamped together with the other plaster shell. A pour spout is placed on top and the mold is sealed with plaster to avoid rubber leakage.
Rubber is mixed and poured into the mold. Most rubbers generally take overnight to cure. The rubber curing time is dependent on the type of rubber and it's cure, and the temperature in the room.
Rubber
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After one side is cured the other shell may be removed and the above process repeated. This time a separator is also applied to the cured rubber so that there will be no bond between the two sides.
After the second side is cured the mothermolds or plaster "shells" are removed (see above). The two rubber sections are then peeled off the original and set back into there own mothermolds to keep their shape. There are various ways to store rubbermolds. Closing the mold and pouring wax into it was the most common method in the past. Today, mostly because of cost, foundries will resort to using plaster. In time, this dries out the rubber. I suggest you store your "own" molds in a dry location. The mold sections can be stored (rubber up) separately without wax or plaster and placed into a plastic bag.
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